From acne to wrinkles: PNIPU experts share tips on how to tackle skin issues effectively.

It is believed that individuals with oily skin are more prone to acne. This is linked to the activity of Propionibacterium acnes, which reside in the ducts of sebaceous glands. Sebum (or oil) consists of triglycerides of fatty acids. Microbes secrete the enzyme lipase, which breaks them down. This process produces glycerin, which feeds the microbes, along with a mixture of high-molecular-weight fatty acids.

This mixture clogs the gland ducts. Hyperkeratosis begins — a process characterized by an accumulation of dead epidermal cells. Some fatty acids, such as linoleic and arachidonic acids, additionally stimulate sebum production. Meanwhile, other compounds, under the influence of skin enzymes, transform into signaling molecules that initiate the inflammatory process. Consequently, blood cells and other cells flow to the site of acne formation. All of these factors create swelling, redness, and pus on the skin.

“Hyperkeratosis is exacerbated by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light, unsuitable skincare products, and aggressive skin cleansing. All of this disrupts the integrity of the epidermis' hydro-lipid mantle, which serves as a protective barrier,” notes Yulia Rozhkova, a cosmetic chemist and associate professor at the Department of Chemical Technologies at PNIUP, candidate of technical sciences.

The second reason for acne occurrence is fluctuations in the concentration of sex hormones in the body. Primarily, this involves estrogen, which affects reproductive function. When testosterone levels rise, it is converted into dihydrotestosterone by the skin enzyme 5α-reductase — a molecule that stimulates the activity of cells producing sebum. The volume of sebum increases, triggering the previously described mechanism involving Propionibacterium.

It is worth noting that hormone-related acne can be caused not only by age-related changes (puberty) but also by the intake of medications: antibiotics, tranquilizers, steroid drugs, barbiturates (medications for the nervous system), and more.

“It is unfair to blame a person with acne for poor hygiene, as breakouts may occur due to hormonal imbalances or medication use. However, those who excessively wash their faces with aggressive products, especially those containing alcohol (Alcohol Denaturat), should be warned that this approach needs adjustment. Opt for cleansers with gentle surfactants based on sarcosinates, betaines, glucosides, and quality skincare products containing ceramides,” explains Yulia Rozhkova.

What ingredients help combat acne?

For home care to prevent breakouts, after they appear, consider products containing a combination of the following active components: zinc, niacinamide (vitamin B3), azelaic acid, and salicylic acid. For cleansing, choose products with gentle acids — lactic or fruit acids. For delicate peeling, enzyme powder is suitable (look for papain or bromelain in the ingredients).

“A popular trend is the extremely high percentage of certain active ingredients in formulations. For instance, niacinamide can be found in concentrations of 10% and even 20% in skincare products. However, such dosages can be not only ineffective but also dangerous in the long term. The skin will not absorb more than it can handle at any given moment, and some of the applied product will simply wash off. Creating such products is, in my opinion, just wasting ingredients and consumer money. The optimal amount of vitamin B3 in a product is 3-5%,” notes Yulia Rozhkova.

Another nuance is that there are no (or critically few) long-term studies on the effects of extremely high concentrations of niacinamide on the skin. The adverse effects may be delayed. Niacin and niacinamide are components of the coenzyme NADPH, which is responsible for oxidation-reduction processes in skin cells. This vitamin stimulates metabolism and can affect both healthy and malignant cells. Research on the impact of niacinamide on cancer cells is varied: some studies suggest that the vitamin slows their growth, while others indicate that it stimulates it. For now, scientists agree that there is insufficient knowledge on this topic and further study is needed.

If breakouts have become a significant problem, it is essential to consult a dermatologist. They will prescribe systemic treatment:

“In such cases, retinoids (a group of vitamin A compounds) are used, for example, isotretinoin. Topical therapy involves the use of products with azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and antibiotics. One should not prescribe these products to themselves as it may worsen the situation. Therefore, a consultation with a doctor is necessary,” adds Natalia Gorodetskaya, a dermatologist and deputy chief physician of the Clinical Dermatovenerologic Dispensary of Perm Krai.

I added a new product to my skincare routine and now I have breakouts. Is this normal?

If you did not have breakouts before using the new product and they appeared afterward, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a specialist to identify the cause. However, if you are treating acne with a dermatologist, this is a normal reaction:

“Therapy, especially systemic treatment, often leads to flare-ups. This is a typical response of the body, and its duration varies from person to person: for some, it lasts 3-7 days, for others — a month and a half,” notes Natalia Gorodetskaya.

What is non-inflammatory acne?

There are several types of acne: closed (white pus-filled bumps on the skin) and open (blackheads) comedones, pustules, papules, nodules, and cysts. Closed and open comedones are considered non-inflammatory forms of acne. The same products recommended for acne can be used for their prevention. If the problem worsens, it should be addressed with a dermatologist.

What to do with post-acne?

“After breakouts, there are often marks left — small scars and pigmentation spots. At home, acid peels are most effective. Gentle ones (glycolic, salicylic) affect the upper layer of the skin. They help improve tone and texture and reduce pigmentation,” explains Yulia Rozhkova.

For serious scarring, one may resort to hardware cosmetology, such as resurfacing, where the skin's surface is treated with a friction or CO2 laser. Post-acne is smoothed out, and the regeneration process is initiated in the skin.

After the procedure, redness, swelling, and peeling may occur. Recovery time depends on the type of laser and depth of impact. Typically, the rehabilitation period lasts from several days to a few weeks. Importantly, the procedure should never be performed if there are still inflammations, as this can lead to widespread acne and risk infection in the bloodstream.

Which "spots" should not be removed?

“Sebaceous filaments are clusters of sebum and dead skin cells around the hair follicle. They are mainly found in people during puberty or with seborrheic or combination skin types. It is not recommended to extract them, as this can lead to inflammation,” explains PNIUP scientist Yulia Rozhkova.

How to distinguish them from blackheads? Sebaceous filaments appear as thin, white, or yellowish threads that emerge from the pores.

Why do pigmentation spots appear?

Stress, excessive exposure to ultraviolet light, and aggressive skincare (frequent concentrated peels) are common causes of spots on the skin. Older individuals are more prone to pigmentation due to a decline in metabolism and, consequently, a weakened antioxidant defense. Women are especially affected due to hormonal changes. However, spots can appear in individuals of any age and gender as a reaction to certain medications.

“Using cosmetic products is a better way to prevent pigmentation. Active ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, arbutin, glabridin, and azelaic acid are suitable for these purposes. There are several peptides used for this purpose, but it is advisable to consult a specialist when choosing such a product,” notes Yulia Rozhkova.

Hardware cosmetology can help combat already existing pigmentation. For example, phototherapy is based on using different types of light to affect the skin. Commonly, lasers, intense pulsed light (IPL), or LED light are used. The beam penetrates the upper layers of the skin and is absorbed by the pigment melanin. This helps destroy excess cells without damaging surrounding tissues. After the procedure, the skin begins to recover, promoting the production of new cells and improving its overall condition. Usually, several sessions are needed to achieve noticeable results.

When should you consult an oncologist about pigmentation spots?

“Moles are also a type of pigmentation spot. They can appear due to intense sun exposure. If such marks increase in number, have unusual shapes, change color, or grow in size, it is necessary to consult a dermatologist for a procedure called dermatoscopy. If the specialist suspects cancer, they will refer the patient to an oncologist to rule out conditions like melanoma — a malignant tumor that develops from melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin. It is considered the most aggressive type of oncology: the tumor grows rapidly and quickly metastasizes to distant organs,” explains Natalia Gorodetskaya.</